“Life is good. But wine is better” -Fernando Pessoa, Portuguese poet
With a long weekend ahead of me and time off school, I went on a trip to Douro Valley in Northern Portugal. It’s a heavenly place of vineyards where wine and port creators cultivate their produce. Portugal is full of hidden treasures that not even the Portuguese seem to believe in anymore.
I am not a wine expert or connoisseur but I would like to portray an image of this beautiful place especially considering that Douro wines are not as popular as French, but I dare say they are possibly as good. So get comfortable with a glass of red vintage and indulge on a journey to Northern Portugal.
“Other wines have character, ours has soul” is the slogan of the region. Douro’s wines are unmistakable, different in their way of being, independent and not always easy to understand. There are wines here that can be compared to a Pouillac, a Chateauneuf-du-Pape or even to a Barolo. While some wines are still cheap, others have acquired the status of cult wines. A Barca Velha will sweep you away to a land of pleasures you won’t be expecting, and set you back quite a few hundred euros, but they’re worthy of every bit.
Douro is the world’s oldest demarcated wine region. A simple Google search will tell you that for almost two thousand years, a very unique viticulture landscape has been developing on the schist slopes boarding the Douro River. We all know about Port wine, but that is a designation that comes after more than 1,700 years of wine making. No wonder there are more varieties of wines here in this region than anywhere else on earth! So I am off to discover some new flavors and smells.
Go to one of the socalcos (a ledge) overlooking the river and let’s start with an aperitif: a “Portonic” (Porto-tonic) made of chilled White Port, accompanied with some sliced dried fig and cheese, and some presunto, or Portuguese smoked ham. Porto Rozes white will be a good choice.
After this small introduction, there is a world wine suggestions. Let’s begin with the whites.
Duas Quintas Reserva 2012, made of 3 Douro grapes (Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barca and Touriga Franca). Or better yet, Nieport Redoma Branco, made of rabigato, codega, viosinho, arinto among other grapes. It is a very balanced wine with a fresh fruity taste and some smokiness. One can feel the wood and the finish is excellent. This will be a perfect pairing for your seafood course.
I am still beginning to discover the world of reds, but I can certainly recommend Quinta da Leda Tinto (Red) 2010 by Casa Ferreirinha. But there is a producer that I particularly fancy: Conceito. It is a relatively new brand that has been exploring some ancient unusual grapes, with the most amazing names and exquisite flavors. Bastardo (yes it does mean Bastard) is the name of a grape and of a wine by Conceito. Pale color, very fresh with bright cherry and herb notes as well as firm, spicy, savory structure. There’s an attractive, elegant sweet cherry perfume here with some sappy notes. Be warned that this is not your normal red, for those addicted to the over used Merlot, and wary of new experiences. It is a walk on the wild side of this old wine region, a taste from the past and surprisingly youthful and fun.
And then we have the Port. There are all sorts of Port wine: White, Ruby, Tawny, Reserva, Colheita and LBV (Late Bottled Vintage). A good vintage is the way to go. And my recommendation is Barro Vintage Port 2011. It’s a deep red with a smooth scent of fruit and nice seaside freshness. The after taste somehow reminds me of cinnamon and it is absolutely delicious.
That is what I got to experience so far as I am only here for a few days. The view, as you can see from my pictures, is breathtaking. The atmosphere is soothing and the landscape is beyond beautiful. I would recommend a boat ride along the river from Porto all the way to Douro.
“There are thousands of wines that can take over our minds. Don’t think all ecstasies are the same!” – Rumi
WE SAID THIS: There’s nothing like a good wine to end the day.
